Dartboard

I love writing on my blog because every time I write I get to relive the happiness that was Okinawa!!

The people I met in Okinawa are hands down my favorite Japanese people ever. Although we only knew each other for a short time, in some instances only a few hours, I feel like I know them better than some people I see everyday here on Goto. Naoki couldn’t stop moving and always said exactly what he was thinking. He played with buckles and zippers on his bag, napkin holders in restaurants and spun pens around his fingers. He was like a real human being that wanted to fidget when he was bored or grumble that people were watching him eat. (I say that makes him a “real human being” because I’m so used to seeing Japanese people being extremely polite in every situation. Polite is nice, sometimes, but it can also be very superficial.)

Naoki was always forthright and honest with me when he disagreed with something I said or when I made a mistake in Japanese. He was well-spoken and mature. He could spend hours in a bookstore. He offered a wealth of information to a stranger so that she could experience the best of Okinawa. I finally emailed him today and hope to hear from him soon.

Mai allowed me to talk and invited me listen. I haven’t met a single woman in my entire year in Japan that 1.) I felt this relaxed with and 2.) could speak English with such ease. We immediate jumped into relationship-talk (one of my favorite subjects) and went on for hours. She wasn’t married to the man she was with, they lived in different cities and weren’t seeing their futures coming together anytime soon. She was independent, smart and entertaining—a model Japanese woman with a career and a determination to succeed. I felt like she was a good friend with whom I was catching up after having not seen for a long time.

Hiroki made me feel comfortable. We immediately clicked, but our relationship lacked any flirtatiousness so I didn’t have to worry about any attraction or come ons. (Now that I think about it, I’ve never met a Japanese guy capable of flirting or coming onto me, but nonetheless.) I was able to spend two worry-free days enjoying the company of my favorite sex. I probably got to know Hiroki the best of anyone in Okinawa, and by the end of it I felt I could really call him a friend. He sent me an email just three minutes after midnight on my birthday so he gets five stars in my book! Hiroki was always smiling and always a gentleman. When I fell asleep on him on the bus, he didn’t squirm like a typical Japanese dude uncomfortable with PT (public touching) but took a picture with his keitai. Then he sent me the picture on my birthday.

Although we agreed to meet each other again sometime, I don’t expect him to come to Goto and I doubt I’ll ever be close enough to his hometown (outside Tokyo somewhere) to warrant a visit. I’m perfectly happy that our lives came together when they did and I could enjoy my last days in Paradise with such an awesome person.

Anyway, the last few pictures from our day at Churami Aquarium.

Hiroki and I. I wish this picture weren't so far away!

The world’s largest aquarium.

We went to a dolphin show (it was free).

To get away from the crowds and intense heat we took a walk toward the ocean. It was gorgeous.

The wind was so strong, but it felt good because it was so hot.

Hiroki pretending to nap. We sat on this bench in the windy wind for a very long time. I loved that we just did anything we wanted for as long as we wanted. It was great to have such freedom.

I didn't even mention that he plays soccer! Seriously plays Yeah! In some ways, I think he's the perfect man for me!

Our feet.
I told Hiroki I thought his toes looked funny and he tried to defend them for a while, but eventually agreed that his left foot toes slant at a funny angle. Actually, for being a feet-are-best-when-far-far-away-person, I rather liked his feet, but it was fun to tease him anyway.
Also notice my new shoes. I tend to buy shoes while on vacation. This vacation included two new pairs: the Birks pictured, and running shoes for all the running training for triathlons and because I needed narrower-toed shoes to fit in my bike's peddles.

We explored the museum and aquarium for a long time—all day essentially. I had to wake up at 6:30 or something to catch the bus going north and so I was pretty tired and needed to leave in the early evening to get back down to Naha. Hiroki was staying up north. The bus ride was over 2 hours and cost $30 (except I had my trusty $10 weekend pass and I saved a ton of money). It was awful saying goodbye to him, but I who knows, maybe I will see him again.

He just emailed me today and said he’s back home and is now looking for a part-time job again to earn money for his next trip. He’s such a floater. I love it.

And THAT’S the end of my stories about Okinawa (probably).
Thanks for reading,
Sierra

In the words of Dawn The Great, another “love, love, love” post, except without quite so much infatuation and much more towelage!!

Okinawa was good to me!

My last weekend in Okinawa there’s this special offer with the bus system. If you buy a $10 pass you can ride as many buses and far as you want for the three day weekend! Score!

I decided to go all the way north to visit Churaumi Aquarium which boastfully hosts the world’s largest aquarium.

It’s big, folks!

It’s Friday and I got a late start on the bus so I sort of decide that going all the way north to the aquarium isn’t the best plan for this day. If I wake up early I can do that on my last day in Okinawa. I tentatively plan to see some stuff around the middle of Okinawa, but am truly as free as a bird!

Then Hiroki boards my bus. He’s tall, wearing relaxed clothes and flip flops, carries a black-checked backpacking pack (please note my backpack is red-checked) and—GET THIS—a towel around his head! Not a turban, but a sweat-rag. For those who haven’t heard yet—I’m a sucker for a towel tied around the head. A weird fantasy, I know, but it sure floats my boat!!! So manly—so sweaty and sexy. And it reminds me of ramen. I never saw it before coming to Japan, but I loved it instantly!!

As soon as he gets on the bus he gives me this huge smile and I return with an equally friendly grin. He asks me some random question and seconds later we're sitting next to each other like two peas in a pod and planning our day together. We quickly discovered we were born a mere day apart. He was turning 23 on September 29th and I on the 30th. What a coincidence!

I was really very lucky to run into him. He was such good company and we got along incredibly well. Neither of us had a destination—vague plans to visit some scenic spots and perhaps a beach—and we approached the day as a spontaneous journey. According to my map there was a beautiful cliff/rock structure called Manzamo less than an hour away and we decided to go there first.

Manzamo.

It was very hot and humid that day and there was a long, uphill walk over merciless asphalt to get to Manzamo. I remember thinking if I had to make that walk alone I would have either 1.) gotten lost and confused by Japanese signs and wandered off the trail only to be found dehydrated and desiccated three days later, or 2.) turned back very soon. Companionship made it bearable.

Hiroki and I (and the towel!!) at Manzamo!

Beautiful views of the ocean, coral reefs and an ANA hotel.

Although he didn’t speak any English, communication was never a problem. He was one of those people who is able to talk to foreigners with mediocre Japanese. And don’t underestimate that ability—it’s sometimes hard to come by people who realize that I’d understand if they just spoke more simply or more slowly!

And finally someone to take a picture of me. How’da like this hat? A little small for my taste.

Because it’s so frickin’ hot, we decide to go swimming. He has a snorkel and mask so we choose a little beach where there are a few others snorkeling. We swim out together and share the gear—he’s not even squeamish about sharing spit!!—to observe a rather disappointing underwater life. Besides that, the clouds have covered the sun and it’s cooling off. We decide to shower and leave, and of course, the sun is out at full strength again! Give me a break!

Our next stop was the Underwater Observatory off the coast of Cape Busena. We rode the bus there and were talking so much we missed our stop. As soon as we get off we see the bus going the other direction pass. I had told him about my hitchhiking trips—which he found unbelievable—so I said, “Let’s hitchhike back.” Before I fully extend my arm and thumb a car has pulled over and a nice family takes us back to Cape Busena. He said it was the gaijin-factor!

Inside the Underwater Observatory.

We’re famished and I talk him into going to A&W for The Best Root Beer Ever! I rave about the miracle of root beer, but warn him that he won’t like it. The trooper that he is, he orders a full mug with his meal. (I think he thought it was alcoholic!) The cashier even had to ask twice, “Are you sure you want the beer with the roots?"

"Hai!" he answers seriously.

Well, he hates it—"It tastes like medicine!"—but he drinks it all to please me! And free refills!! But we don't partake. =) Again, we sit and talk forever and decide to spend Saturday, my last day in Okinawa, together, too.

He was a good friend.

Cheers!

I had hoped to include both our days together, but I just can’t stay awake any longer. My eyes are burning and my teeth are begging to be brushed.

Until next time,
Sierra

P.S. This post is called "Holy Smokes!" because Hiroki told me he smoked, but when I told him I didn't like cigarrettes he never lit up in the whole two days we were together. Not because I asked him not to, but because... he knew I didn't like it. He even gave me his pack of cigarettes after we parted our last time and said he didn't need them anymore. I don't expect him to quit-especially now that I'll never see him again, but it was very considerate to not smoke around me. He was a gentleman!

I woke up early to go to Moho Island (I can’t actually remember the name of the island so “Moho” will be the temporary (or permanent) substitute). While waiting to board I see some brochures for a minshuku and scuba and the kanji for the island looks a little different than I remembered. At some point then or while on the ferry I realize I’m not going to Moho Island at all, but rather Tokashiki.

It’s fine, I guess. I had no plans either way. So I arrive at Tokashiki, get off the ferry and board a random bus although I have no idea where it’s going. HEY! It only costs ¥250!

I end up at this beautiful beach.

For a grand total of $15 I rent an umbrella, snorkel and mask for the day. I was content for hours upon hours. Snorkeling, reading, then napping under the umbrella. Repeat process. I really enjoyed snorkeling. It takes no effort whatsoever—it’s so easy to float at the surface of the water and watch the fish. I never really understood how snorkeling worked. I didn’t realize coral beds were so close to the surface. It’s much cheaper and easier than scuba diving, but still just as fun. I got a nice tan on my legs and back but didn’t have to sunbathe for it.

I LOATHE sunbathing. So hot and miserable. You just sit there in your own sweat while you roast away like a potato in the oven. Wouldn’t you rather do something fun?!?!

I hiked up to a lookout point.

It’s hard to take a picture of yourself. One point against traveling alone.

These serene surroundings all to yourself. A thousand points for traveling alone.

This is the closest thing to a sunset I saw in all my days in Okinawa. It was beautiful, but I would have liked to see a proper one on the beach. Next time!

At the end of this *very exhausting* day, I get on the bus back to the boat and the boat back to Okinawa. On the boat I meet a very, very wonderful Japanese couple. The woman’s name is Mai, but I can’t remember the guy’s. Both have great English, but Mai is far more chatty.

We got along so well we decided to go out for dinner together. We found a great place, order up a bunch of Okinawan food and sit back to listen to a man with his shisan (Okinawan guitar covered in snake skin). A great night! Mai and I talk like old girlfriends!

Me and my new friends.

I am happy.

Love, Sierra

Posts are moving fast so try to keep up!

I FINALLY got some time today. Time to live. Time to breathe. Not a single responsibility all day at work and not a single plan all evening (until I realized it was actually Tuesday and not Monday, and I really had to go to karate, but then I decided to saboru (be truant, idle, SABOtage by slowness) because I hadn’t done my grocery shopping or eaten dinner and I can’t very well go to karate on an empty stomach, now can I? I didn’t think so.)

And what’s with the fucking exchange rate? The dollar costs me 114 yen and I don’t even want to think about exchanging, but I just realized that if I keep putting it off I could also be sitting around WAITING for my paycheck to shrink and shrivel into nothingness every month. Wha’do I do? Seriously. If you have a suggestion, please HELP ME!!! I’m accepting loan offers in American dollars until I can exchange my yen, or predictions about the future of the dollar!!!

Masaharu and I are fighting. I’m not even entirely sure why. Yesterday I asked him to call the Nagasaki ferry port and find out the time of the last JET Foil for me. He called me back and said 4:30 so I rushed down from Omura to catch it and when I arrived at 4:20 or so, they said the last one was actually 3:45. Angrily, I called him back and said, “Did you ACTUALLY call them or did you just assume?” and he goes “I called them” and I was silent and he said, “Okay, you don’t believe me,” and hung up.

Then he called me back and said he recalled the company and they made a mistake and told him 4:30 even when it was really 3:45. It was a huge, costly mistake for me. I spent an hour and $30 to get to Nagasaki only to spend 3 more hours and $40 getting back to Fukuoka. I was very tired and angry and just wanted to be home so I wasn’t very pleasant on the phone with him. I suppose that’s why we’re fighting, cause I was upset at the situation and he thought I didn’t believe him and I didn’t know what to do. He said he didn’t want to talk to me the rest of that day and now it’s been two days but we still haven’t discussed anything.

I’m kind of happy to have this night to myself, I needed to be home and away from everybody and everything and to rest and do nothing, but I do feel guilty because he’s been really patient with me while I’ve been off traveling and working so late and hardly have time at all for him anymore. He waited until 10 p.m. on my birthday when I finally got home from everything and gave me a great birthday dinner, but then I was up at 6 a.m. the next morning leaving for my triathlon. Whenever he comes over it’s already 10 or later and I just shower and go to bed.

Honestly I just am starting to feel lukewarm about the relationship. The fact that I was so terribly love struck by Naoki while in Okinawa isn’t a very good sign for my current relationship. Of course, nothing happened with Naoki or Hiroki (oh, you don’t know about him yet …you’ll find out soon!), but at the same time I didn’t—and don’t—feel very committed to Masaharu. I feel like I’m being unfair to him, so I’ve promised to stay in the island this three day weekend coming up and we’ll sleep in late everyday and eat okonomiyaki at our favorite restaurant in the afternoon, then watch movies all night. Just like he likes. And if I can get him to go hiking with me one of those days I’ll consider myself lucky!

Just so long as I can sleep!! I need more sleep! I rode a ferry all night last night, reached my island at 7:10 a.m. and was at work just an hour later (be sympathetic and forget that I already told you in the first paragraph I did absolutely nothing while at work today! I was PRESENT!).

Sleepy

After my wonderful 24 hours with Naoki, I had pretty high standards for traveling friends!! The next day I had already planned to go diving with a friend of Yoshida-sensei and so I spent most of my day traveling to Yomitan in the middle part of the island and then hanging out with the divers. I was really shy so I didn’t take any pictures on the boat or while I was with the diving instructor, but this is his place.

Beyond the grass…green, green Oregon grass…is the ocean I went diving in.

I liked the toilet and shell-door.

Diving was great, but not as impressive as the first time. The instructor was really patient and kind, and we dived for almost an hour (not sure ‘cause he forgot his watch) but I thought Goto’s ocean had just as much to offer as Okinawa’s. I liked the experience of doing a boat dive, but I think I prefer a land dive. I felt like we submerged too quickly and my ears had a hard time popping. When I got back to the boat I felt like I had a lot of phlegm in my throat—so much, in fact that I decided to spit it out rather than swallow it—and when I looked at it in the water, it was all bloody! I told the instructor because it really scared me and he said it could be because I didn’t unplug my ears well enough or because the air in the tank is so dry and may have irritated my throat. Because I had that pain in my ears in the beginning, I think it was the former.

He too said I was a good diver—although I’m still unsure what “makes” a good diver—I certainly don’t think coughing up blood is a good sign. He recommended I have Yoshida-sensei, here on Goto, help me get my license. Yoshida-sensei and I have set up a date and beginning October 15th I’m going to start my first of six dives needed for my diving license. He says he’s not worried about the practical diving tests, but the written test, which includes some physics might be hard because he can’t speak English. The textbook is in English, but he can’t give additional explanations. Then he said, “Aw, you’re smart, you can do it,” and so we’re going for it. I especially like the price: the cost of air (and other baked goods I make for him).

Back to Okinawa. The next day I had hoped to take a ferry to Ishigaki and Iriomoto (two very beautiful islands south of mainland Okinawa). These were all the places Naoki had recommended to me, but he mistook the ferry schedule and I missed the only boat that left for that week. Flying was out of the question because of the cost, but I could do day trips to closer islands instead. For that day, I decided to explore some parks and beaches around Naha. I happened to find a Chinese park called Fukushuen and I lolled around the grounds, feeding fish and taking pictures for a very long time. I took a lot of pictures, but I think these give the idea.

Up close this was really cool. You could walk behind the waterfall and there were lots of tunnels under and around the building. If I had had someone to play hide-and-go-seek with, I would have.

Then I found a beach and went for a quick swim. I didn’t have sunscreen, so it was a quick dip. I learned my lesson from Naoki and applied SPF liberally the whole time. Going to the beach alone—again, takes a bit more courage than I had at the time, but I was really brave and decided to strike up a conversation with some other boys in the water. They were nice and we chatted for a few minutes, but more importantly I worked up the guts to be the first one to talk to a shiranaihito whereas before I let everyone else approach me.

I showered and then read in this spot in the shade for a very long time. It was a relaxing afternoon.

I met a Canadian guy and his Japanese friend playing the guitar and drinking beer on the beach and they invited me to their fireshow that night. I went and it was very impressive.

He really enjoyed getting screams out of girls.

He’s spinning poi—I wouldn’t know that if it weren’t for Vicky who can also do this little trick!

The next day I decided to sleep in late and go for a run because I knew I needed to do some training for my upcoming triathlon. The run is definitely my least favorite part of the race and I practice swimming and biking plenty. Being away from the pool and without a bike is the perfect excuse to run, run, run. I ran once. Hee, hee.

I managed to run to the ferry port and refund Naoki’s ticket—would they ever let you refund a ticket you didn’t use after the boat already sailed in America? I don’t think so!! They’d probably give you a hard time even if you were canceling a week early, never mind having a random foreigner do it for you! They can’t do cheese, but they can do customer service!

Another relaxing day I think I did some laundry, shopping and ate overpriced Indian food. I bought some Japanese novels because my reading supply was getting low and prepared for going to another island the next day.

Just realized today is Tuesday and I have karate in a few minutes—will be back soon for more stories! Probably another two entries, can you bare with me?
Love, Sierra

It's just not a Sierra story if it doesn't include a love story!

We met in a dim hallway in the minshuku (the place where I stayed, not really sure what to call it in English: a family run, capsule-style hostel with cheap beds, free internet, free washing, an easy-going staff and NO CURFEW!!).

Kono kanji:

Of course, this is what mine looked like!

The dictionary does a pretty good job describing it. “A private home providing food and lodging to travelers.” A minshuku, of course!

I was sitting quietly by myself with a stack of clean clothes and my shower bag—still the first day of my trip and a little unsure—when he asked me in Japanese, “Waiting for the shower?” I think to myself, “Wow, a Japanese person talking to me! What luck!” We exchanged the basics (I’m from America and traveling alone) and the shower opened up and I went in. When I came out he was still there, icing his hands, so I decided to be brave and ask him, “What happened?” And so begins the story of Naoki and me.

For three hours we sat on the couch in the dark hallway of the minshuku and talked about everything under the sun. I kept thinking of Daniel’s favorite romance movie “Before Sunrise.” We spoke in Japanese for about the first 15 minutes until I finally asked if he spoke English and he answers perfectly, “I went to university in New Zealand for four years, but my English is still so poor.”

Jaw drops and I say, “WHY are we speaking in Japanese then?” We continue in half English, half Japanese (okay it’s more like 90/10) and discuss our lives, where we’ve been, where we still want to go. I find out he’s a Japanese teacher (now I feel really silly about my broken child-like Japanese, but I finally found someone who will correct my mistakes!) and lives in Korea—geographically not that far from where I live on Goto, but in terms of cost and time getting there, still a lifetime away. He tells me all about where he’s been in Okinawa the last week, and recommends places to stay, must-see beaches and things to skip. We decide to go to the ferry port together the next day so I can get my ticket to Ishigaki and he has to refund a ticket which he didn’t end up using.

All the time I sat next to him on the couch, there was a single table lamp behind him in an otherwise dark hallway and so I could only really see a silhouette of him. I didn't think of it much at the time, except I remember thinking the light was so bright and I kept trying to hide in his shadow.

So, as we talked, I had a "love-at-first-personality" experience. Because I couldn't really see him there was no immediate physical attraction. However I quickly became attracted to his personality! I took a couple pictures of him the next day, but looking back on them now, he still looks like a stranger. I think because I got to know his personality first—and was completely impressed by it—it didn’t even occur to me to notice what he looked like the next day. I totally skipped the "looks" part of the attraction.

He is pretty handsome, I think. I can't really tell anymore because once you are emotionally attracted to someone, it's hard not to be attracted to them physically too. (Usually.) The pictures I have of him, now, in retrospect, seem pretty average but I certainly didn’t feel that way at the time. Also, I distinctly remember commenting on how curly his hair was that night, but in the picture it's not curly at all. Weird, but cool. I think love-at-first-personality is how relationships should start. If only we could meet everyone in a dark room!

Okay, the pictures! THE PICTURES!
This is him in a taxi the next day. I think he was a little surprised by it—I didn’t give him much warning.

First thing the next morning (we exchanged cell phone numbers and agreed to give wake up calls), we called the ferry company and realized that because it was a holiday it would be closed. Because he would be leaving early the next morning, he gave me his ticket with a note in Japanese and I said if I could refund it for him, I would. If not, I’d just toss the ticket and it was $50 down the drain.

Then we had an early lunch together. Taco rice. He said I HAD to have it once in Okinawa and he knew a great little place. He was right. It was delicious and exactly what it sounds like. Taco insides over rice instead of in a shell. The only thing I didn’t like was the cheese. Plastic cheese again, Japan?!? Come on!! While in the restaurant I couldn’t help but feel very lucky to be with him. It was a tiny place and very crowded so our conversations were everyone’s and everyone’s ours. We spoke in Japanese for things like “Pass the salsa,” then in English when we didn’t want others to understand, “The people in line keep staring at you.” It was like a club and had me beaming inside and out.

Then we decided to hang out together. Because he had a horrid sunburn on both arms—bubbly skin and everything!—we decided to stay indoors. First we went to the Japanese army’s underground tunnels and accompanying museum. A maze of tunnels where the Japanese hid during the war. It was really interesting to see and a nice break from the heat! We went through everything really slowly, talking about so many things. When we finally came out of the museum and walked through the small garden outside Naoki said, “Isn’t it great that Japanese and Americans can walk peacefully together here?” I smiled.

He’s a photographer. “It’s just a hobby,” he said, but his pictures were incredible. He quickly showed some pictures of sunsets he took on Iriomote (another island) and said unimpressively, “Yeah, yeah, you can get sunsets like that anywhere,” and then he showed me his favorite of the bunch. I can’t describe it, so I won’t try, but I was very impressed with his talent and even more so with his modesty.

This is Naoki taking a photo of a flower in the park. Notice the towel rubber banded to his arm to keep out of the sunlight. He had a newspaper wrapped around the other arm and was probably quite a sight!

Then we wanted to see a movie (more inside activities) but had to kill some time before it started. We went shopping a little bit, killed an hour in the bookstore together, and then stopped in at Moss Burger. Although we weren’t terribly hungry, Naoki said he could always eat! My kind of man! We sat in Moss Burger long after we finished eating, just talking. I was so happy to talk to someone—someone Japanese! He said he was really impressed with how much Japanese I learned in just one year—as if he hadn’t stolen my heart already!!—all I needed was compliments from him!

His English had really warmed up at that point and he had a great vocabulary. We did silly stuff like translate a little card sitting on the table telling you that you didn’t have to clear your tray, just leave it on the table. “Kekko desu” can mean either “No thanks” or “…is good.” That’s confusing because they could be opposites, but he helped me understand how I can determine which it is from the context. Because he teaches 1-kyu Japanese, he is very good at explaining grammar. Although he lives in Korea, so he’s used to explaining it in Korean, not English! Yeah, fluent in three languages! I had to be careful not to drool.

I asked him if he ever worked in a ramen shop. That was my final request. I decided some time ago that if I was going to marry a Japanese man, he’d have to work (or have worked) in a ramen shop. It’s one of my favorite foods and I LOVE the towels they wear around the head. Well… Naoki’s father owns a ramen shop! It couldn’t be more perfect if I planned it …so I thought! But it does get better. Naoki’s younger brother is moving to Korea early next year and together they are opening a ramen shop in Seoul! He says there are no Japanese-run ramen shops in all of Seoul and he thinks there needs to be! I said I’d come and visit if he promised to put my favorite Hakata ramen on the menu.

We talked for so long we missed the movie altogether. He had some last-minute shopping to do (he was leaving early the next morning) so we decided to go our separate ways. I knew he was leaving the next day, but I expected to see him at the minshuku later that night. I ended up falling asleep really early and when I woke up the next morning I knew he already left. We hadn’t exchanged addresses or anything! I had his cell phone number, but it only worked when he was in Japan. I was sad until I peeked out my “curtain door” and saw a piece of paper on the floor at the entrance of the women’s room. I knew it was from him. I jumped up and grabbed and read it over and over again. He also left me the map which had all his circles and notations of places to visit when I went to the other islands.

So I have his email address (and his ¥5,000) but I haven’t emailed him yet. I don’t know why. I just haven’t.

Here is a highway—the minshuku was just up the road near the Hitachi sign.

Kokusaidori from the Bookstore and Movie Theater building.

Can you find what’s wrong with this picture?

We're only on day two of my ten day vacation!!!
Love, Sierra

I’ve been wanting to share pictures and stories from my trip to Okinawa, but I’ve just been crazy busy since I got back! Without further ado, here’s the first installment!

Since I already mentioned my trip to Shuri Castle, I’ll just give you the pictures. Read my tadaima post if you haven’t already. The gates at Shuri Castle.

Blinded by a flash at Shuri Castle—and you can’t even see the Shisa statue behind me. This is the picture those sweet Japanese girls took for me. I asked specially for the “deer caught in headlights” look and they delivered!

Beautiful Japanese lanterns lining the pathway up to the main building.

The festival was chosen for this weekend because of the full moon. We were lucky to spot it from behind clouds every few minutes—I especially like the way the moonlight silver lines the clouds.

The moon rises higher. Such a beautiful black night.

The stage and front of the main castle where a No performance took place.

A picture from the No performance. No is a style of Japanese theatre, one of the three major forms theatre which I studied the first time I came to Japan 3 years ago. (The other two are bunraku and kabuki.) This play had a unique Okinawan flavor, however, and differed greatly from the first play I saw in Kyoto. The large red headdress is specifically Okinawan and can’t be found anywhere else in Japan. As this performance was free and open to the public, the story was a comedy and included a monkey (which you can see is held on a leash by the man standing) and moved a bit faster than the average No performance. Just one hour as opposed to the more usual three to five hours.

Here are some Americans I met at Shuri and went out for dinner with afterwards. The guys work on the American base in Okinawa and the woman (the wife of the guy in white) also teaches English. Although her job sounds very similar to mine, she is not a JET participant.

They ordered me some traditional Okinawan food and I intrigued them with “stories from the mainland.” As we talked we discovered many differences between Okinawa and “mainland Japan” in terms of language, culture and food. Although I felt I could only speak for Kyushu and not so much for the whole of Japan, they began to think of Okinawa as a whole different country. And I suppose in many ways, having been “America” for so many years after the war and the continued presence of American forces, it is not entirely Japanese or American.

There were A&W Restaurants everywhere! Deeelicous!

This is just the beginning of pictures, but I want to break it into readable chunks!

Love, Sierra