Dartboard

We lost one of the best this week. Kerry’s flight departed Friday from Fukuoka and I just got an email today saying she has safely arrived in Philadelphia. She seems to be hanging in there despite the never ending bad news she’s received in the last two months. Ganbatte Kerry—you’re in our thoughts and prayers!

I picked her up from her apartment at 6:40 a.m. Friday morning and helped her move the last few things out of her apartment and hand keys over to her supervisor, Urahama-sensei. The ferry didn’t leave until 7:40, so we had plenty of time to get to the port and say our goodbyes to the few teachers and students who were expected to be there. On our drive through Urakura (Peter’s town) we saw some kids walking along the street—looking a little punky and up to no good—but Kerry recognized them as her own students at Kamichu (Junior High). We both thought they must be getting into some trouble this early in the morning!

At the port there were so many students (in uniform, of course!) and teachers from Kerry’s school, as well as members from her adult English conversation class, Laura and Yuka, and other friends we’ve met along the way: Blaine, his wife and daughter. About the only people who weren’t there were Catherine and Peter. It was amazing to see the support Kerry received, but this was only the beginning! We took lots of pictures with everyone in the lobby and Kerry received so many goodbye cards and omiyage from everyone—very touching.

I spoke with some members of Kerry’s eikaiwa class (adult conversation class) and they asked me to take it over for her. It’s on Wednesday nights from 7:30-9:30 p.m., but unfortunately is held in Aokata—a bit of drive for me to commit to every week. Kerry highly recommended that I do it, not so much because they want to continue learning English, but because they are a great group (of mostly women) that love to get together and hang out with the foreigner. In fact, they don’t even care about speaking English, so it’s a great opportunity to practice Japanese. Kerry said they love to teach her about Japanese culture, share the island gossip and give gifts to each other—it’s more of a gathering of friends than a class. I would love to do it, but I would probably do it every other week for two hours, or for just one hour every week. It would be nice to alternate between this and the Children’s English Night I sort of do on Wednesdays.

Anyway, back to saying goodbye. The ferry pulled into port and we all shifted to outside on the port deck, taking pictures all along the way and then… we saw the hoodlums. The ones walking from Urakura at 7 a.m.—we thought they were up to trouble—but they were actually walking to Arikawa to say goodbye to Kerry! It was so sweet! Even the “worst” kids in the school, still get up before the crack of dawn, ON THEIR DAY OFF, to wave goodbye to their English teacher!! Kerry got about five pictures with this cute group of boys, which she later said to me consisted of some of her favorite students. I agree—some of the “bad” kids, the ones the Japanese teacher’s don’t like anyway, are my favorite students. It’s hard to call them bad, because compared to American “tough kids” there isn’t a bad bone in their body. They just have incredible energy and enthusiasm for life. They’re teenagers, for god’s sake, they need to rebel somehow.

When we could finally pull Kerry away from the masses, and get her on the boat, we were asked to go up to the upper deck to wave goodbye. Then I realized why so many students were their in their uniforms. They were about to perform one of the most heartrending goodbye song and dances I have ever seen in my life. All the boys in uniform lined up along the dock. The biggest boy, front and center, was directing the others by calling out in as deep a voice a 14-year-old can manage. A single taiko drum beating between his shouts, and then this group of boys began yelling and stomping out their sorrow. It was ritualistic and powerful. A crowd of teenagers mourning the premature departure of their teacher and friend. It was expressive. Heart-felt. Bittersweet. A million words could not have articulated their sorrow more poignantly.

After their incredible performance, all the teachers and students joined together to sing the school song. It seemed like everyone was in tears. I wasn’t expecting to cry, but I couldn’t hold anything back at this display. Watching Kerry as she waved and cried, I tried to imagine what it would be like to have to leave this island now, in the middle of this experience. Perhaps I take it for granted; here we are, contracted for a year, but sometimes that year just seems so long and certain circumstances unbearable. A JTE which is impossible to teach with, an annoying kid who gives you nothing but grief in class, unending rice and unidentifiable fish bentos. This is the small stuff. If someone were to rip me out of Japan today, I would be not only upset and disappointed, but I’d be pissed off! Which is exactly how Kerry feels, and we were all aware of it. She must go home now, really she has no other option, but I know if there was anything in the world she could have done to stay, she would have done it.

The boys finished off the performance with some more stomping and yelling and I saw off to the far right, even the non-uniformed boys were starting their own line-up and performing the dance as well. Although they weren’t allowed to be an official part of the performance, they too wanted to express themselves. There were many colorful streamers attached to the railings of the ferry that connected to the hands of Kerry’s students, co-workers and friends—which started to brake in the wind as the ferry pulled away from the dock. As the ferry got further and further from the port, the boys started to run down the bohatei (cement seawall to prevent large waves from entering the bay) jumping and screaming and waving their goodbyes until the ferry was long out of sight. Between sobs and tears Kerry whispered, “I can still hear you. I can still hear you.”

I was pleased I could accompany Kerry on her last ferry ride from Kamigoto to Sasebo. She said we was really glad I was there too. We sat inside the ferry together as it pulled away from the islands and watched the lush, green mountains of Goto Retto drifting by. That moment I saw them differently. I saw them through Kerry’s eyes; the eyes of someone who would not be returning to their quiet beauty and happy innocence. It made me appreciative of my placement on Kamigoto and especially grateful for the good health of my family and friends.

“Take care of Kamigoto these next two years, Sierra. Appreciate the island for me.”

Kerry, I know that you’ll be reading my blog occasionally and checking in with us here on Kamigoto. If there is anything that we can do for you, just name it. We love you so much and support your tough decision to go home in this challenging time. Kamigoto won’t be the same without you. We will miss you so much! We already do.

With love,
Sierra

I am shooting myself in the foot right now. It’s almost 1 a.m. on Thursday night and I have to wake up at 5:30 a.m. tomorrow to take Kerry (and myself) to the port! It’s a three-day weekend and I'm going to visit Peter, an ALT on Takashima (鷹島). I have to give you the kanji because it’s not 高島 as I once believed; it’s much more complicated than that. I haven’t started packing for my weekend or anything yet, but I’ve been posting pictures from my weekend on Fukue. Yeah! So go click on “Fukue” on the archives list to see them!!

This has been a great week. By Wednesday I decided that I better continue working out in case I still can do the triathlon in June, but I’ve about given up hope. I did some biking and swimming yesterday and today and have met some cool people in the pool since then. I’ve been spending enough time in the pool that I know all the regulars and they are getting brave enough to talk to me. Yesterday, I spent 45 minutes talking to Shigehisa in the second lane, and today a cute old woman, named Sanae, I think, talked to me in the third lane. She was so funny. I could only understand phrases of what she was saying, but she wouldn’t slow down enough for me to be able to really understand her questions, so she just kept on talking and talking and I just nodded and smiled and tried to understand what I could. She told me I’m getting fast because I’m taking so many lessons, which is not true, but I have had Tanabe (a swim coach) and Koichiro (my neighbor) helping me informally when they can. I think she sees me getting this coaching in the pool and wants to encourage me.

I saw Shigehisa again today and he said when he got home he wished we had gone out to ramen yesterday. (We got into this huge conversation about how much I love ramen—especially Kawayasu ramen—and I want to go there everyday.) We said next time we’d go together after working out, but we’re always coming and going at odd times so I’m not sure it will ever happen. Anyway, I got to know him pretty well. He’s 42 (and looks in really good health) and works at a building construction company. His English is pretty good, but I’m insistent on using some Japanese so I get to practice too. He seems really nice and has a very nice smile. I hope we can hang out sometime.

Another woman talked to me in the onsen today. I’m sure I’ve met her before but I can’t remember when, or what her name is. She’s taking this English course on TV and she just had a test in Nagasaki today. She wanted to practice with me, but I honestly couldn’t understand her English very well. I did hear that she’s going to Paris for two days in June and she can’t wait to use her English? I think she messed up something in that sentence…at least I hope so, otherwise she’ll be shocked for all two days of her Paris excursion.

Oh, it’s so late. I need to pack for this trip! I’m not sure I’ll get many pictures to post this weekend, Peter only has a phone camera and they tend to be low quality but maybe he’ll pass them on to me and me to you. Have a nice weekend and I’ll write when I get back.
Love, Sierra

Here’s a picture of my college friend, Alex, who went to Russia for Jan Term! He is standing in front of Kremlin. (P.S. I love that coat!)

Another picture Alex took in Russia. This is the Red Square with St. Basil’s on the left and Lenin’s Tomb on the right (right?). It’s so beautiful I told him he must enter in the Study Abroad Photo Competition at Linfield. (The competition that I ran for 3 years at that school. *Sigh*)

It’s 59 degrees in the staffroom today. I’m doing all that I can stop myself from taking a permanent seat in front of the kerosene heater and just staying there all day. I limited my first two trips to just 3 minutes. I don’t want to look like I don’t have anything to do… I haven’t been this consistently cold in a really long time.

I’m making a dictation about the Super Bowl right now and so I realize, I know nothing about the Super Bowl. A big game, lots of people watch it, famous halftime shows, what else goes on? I don’t care about football. I don’t know any interesting statistics or history about the games. I should just write something about Valentine’s Day. It’s easier, but probably way overdone.

Last night I had an awesome dinner with Asagami-san and the tennis crew. We went over for spicy nabe at his apartment. There were three other women there and later one of their husbands showed up too. The food was so good—I was surprised that Asagami had cooked it himself. It is also the first spicy dish I’ve eaten in Japan (besides when Daniel ordered Indian for us in Nagasaki and it was so hot I couldn’t taste it anymore). It was perfect for me, but the women were all wiping sweat off their foreheads with napkins and taking off all their layers of clothing. It was cute. I even asked to take some of it home so my bento lunch today and so they gave me enough for two more dinners. I didn’t stay for long because I was tired from my long weekend on Fukue, but I’m really glad I went. We had some interesting conversations about machoism in Japan and were the concept of “man ruling over women” originated from. I also learned a new Japanese word for “I’m full!” “Manpuku!” I wouldn’t be surprised if it’s impolite or has a hidden double meaning though because they all were acting pretty drunk and crazy and getting the foreigner to say dirty words would have been fun for them.

Hatakeyama is gone all this week. He’s taking the second years (juniors) on a skiing trip to the mainland. They will be gone Tuesday through Friday—although Friday is a holiday so we don’t have to come to work. Today is Hatakeyama’s substitution holiday so he’s not here either…except for one class this morning. Yes, he came to work on his day off to teach class—no surprise there, really. This is Japan! Things are going to be very slow this week. Our morning meeting didn’t even last a minute and usually it lasts about five to ten. We’re close enough to graduation that 3rd years (seniors) don’t need to come to school but once a week. So it’s just me and the first years.

Well, I have to go finish this dictation and eat lunch now. As soon as I get the pictures from Catherine from this weekend I’ll post an entry about my trip to Fukue.
Love, Sierra

This weekend Catherine and I went to Fukue with Shingo Kohara. He’s a math teacher at Narao Elementary School and he and Catherine work together once a week. Shingo is from Fukue and he wanted to take us around his island, see his house, meet his family, etc. He invited his girlfriend, Tomoko and her sister, Sumi, from Fukuoka come out with us. It was the best weekend! Shingo is a really sweet guy and an amazing host. We did so much in such a short weekend together and Shingo wanted to pay for all of it.

We left early (like 7:30 a.m. early) Saturday morning and took a ferry to the island. This is me driving. The beginning of the adventure!

Taking pictures on the ferry... Here’s Shingo and me. Me not quite awake yet.

Catherine and me on the ferry. This picture manages to make both our noses look really funny, don't you think? Mine's not usually shaped like that...

Our first glimpse of Fukue. Looks a lot like Kamigoto actually. It’s so blue because we were messing around with the manual settings on Catherine’s camera. By the way, thanks so much for all the pictures Catherine! I’m still waiting to get my camera back from America.

Sumi and Tomoko had arrived on the Taiko Ferry just before us so they were already waiting with Shingo’s father. First we went to Shingo’s high school, Goto High School, which also happens to be a castle!! Then to the castle garden, shaped like a heart, with a large pond in the middle. It was really beautiful.

Tomoko, Sumi, Catherine and Sierra all at the entrance of the castle (also Goto High School). Shingo walked over this bridge everyday as a high school student.

We saw a yochien (kindergarten) next to the castle. These kids were talking a walk and holding their “leash.”

This little terror was hammering his shovel into the tree, probably for attention. It was cute.

Next we went to a temple, the oldest on the Gotos and had a tour by this cute old monk who studied dancing in New York for five years. He explained all the important things in the temple to us, but in Japanese. I could only understand the easy parts of each description, “The white Buddha on the right… The tall statue in the back… ” and when he said years/numbers. It was exciting to be able to understand that much though.

The temple.

They had some Buddhas lined up around the exterior of the temple. They were wearing these red aprons with prayers written on them. Each had a piece of candy in front of it—until you got around the corner and saw that a few Buddhas at the end had ¥1 coins instead. Maybe someone got hungry.

Here you can see that Fukue’s landscape is a bit different from Kamigoto’s. There’s more flat land so they do some rice farming and keep cattle.

I like the way this picture turned out.

The official flower of Goto is the camellia. In Japanse “tsubaki.” I used that as one of my questions in Jeopardy in class last week so now I see tsubaki all over the place. These are all tsubaki trees that were blooming heavily in January. You can see some small pink flowers way in the back (if you know what you're looking for and have a good imagination).

After the temple we went to a Catholic church. It was very simple with these old wooden pews that looked straight out of colonial America. We also got to drink French tap water. Obviously something got lost in that translation. The water was supposed to be extremely healthy, but how is that connected to France? Not sure…

Next we went to meet Shingo’s mother and see their flower shop. His mom has a perm! I was surprised to see a Japanese person with curly hair! It was cute. Then we bought some cakes at a cake shop across the street and went to have lunch. We ate ramen at this small shop near the onsen. It was so delicious!! I think it was “salt” flavor, but it had shrimp and a leafy vegetable in it too. I was so stuffed by the end of the meal! Shingo’s sister stopped by and so we met her quickly. She was too shy to speak English, but was really nice… and so beautiful!

Our ramen chef.

Catherine, Sumi and Tomoko eating salt ramen. Okay, not yet, but they will be soon.

We saw Catherine’s dream car on Fukue. “I WILL own it someday!” she said. It already matches her shoes.

After lunch Shingo’s tour continued. We went to a beautiful beach. It was too cold to stay for long, but it was nice to see. The water was so blue, you can see for yourself!

Shingo, Tomoko, Sierra and Sumi on the beach together.

The white sands of Fukue’s beaches. Gorgeous!

Randomly took this picture and I liked it a lot. It’s very… bonsai, don’t you think? My father would be proud.

Shingo was such a great tour guide. After hanging on the beach for a while he said it was time for our next stop. Did anyone need to use the bathroom now? Then, while we were all at the bathroom, Shingo bought five hot teas and coffees from the vending machine and put them on the hood of the car as a surprise. Here we are drinking our beverages in the car!

Whoops, the cord got in the first one…

Next we went on this great hike on the east end of the island. There’s a lighthouse way out on this cliff-like rock and there’s a path that you can hike to get down to it. It was so beautiful out there.

Ousezaki Lighthouse.

Squeezing Ousezaki.

The hike down to the lighthouse was easy, but coming back up, now that was a bit tougher! Here’s Tomoko, Sumi, Sierra and Shingo on the trail. I wish we had a good hike like this on Kamigoto!

We made it to the lighthouse!

Isn't the view amazing?

The lighthouse again, up close!

The hike was really great. It woke us up from the ramen-coma we’d slipped into. It’s always nice to do some exercise after eating. Then we made the long drive back around to Tomie (Shingo’s town) and I won’t mention whether or not I was awake for the drive! In Tomie, Shingo scheduled us an appointment and we did ceramics! Can you believe it? We had already done so much for the day. It was so much fun. Shingo and Sumi met each other at Fukuoka’s Art School so you can imagine how perfect their works were, but I was quite proud of my little cup, saucer and spoon that I made too. Imperfect as art should be. With my left over clay I made masses of braided chopstick holders. I can’t wait to see how it all turned out.

I was getting pretty hungry, but we had one last stop on our Fukue Sightseeing Tour: the onsen! (hot spring bath) Catherine loves onsens and so this was her one request for the trip to Fukue. We were only there for a half hour, but it felt so good to relax. They even had an outside onsen—it’s so great to be in hot water in cold weather.

We had a huge dinner with Shingo’s family. So much food and all so delicious. I swear I gained 2 kilos just eating that meal. There was crunchy sara udon, sukiyaki, two kind of sashimi, mussels, korokke, salad and plenty to drink. Shingo’s brother-in-law also showed up and I had a fun conversation with him because he used to live on Kamigoto and knows many Nakagoto teachers because his wife (Shingo’s sister) used to work there. I then got to see their wedding party video and saw three of my co-workers, including my supervisor Hatakeyama-sensei! In the video, one teacher, Iwaseura-sensei, played the role of the “sex god,” as it was translated to me, where he brings good fortune to the newlyweds. That was funny to watch. I can’t wait to go back and tell him what I saw!

Saying goodbye to Shingo’s parents in front of their house. The statue on the left is a piece of Shingo’s art.

Sunday was such a big day too. It’s getting really late though and I’m afraid I won’t be able to write much now. In the morning, after a great pancake breakfast, we went to a soba shop and made soba noodles. Soba are buckwheat noodles from China.

Here we are mixing the soba powder.

And after much kneading we roll it out…

And finally we cut the soba into as thin slices as we can get. Catherine was given a lot of heckling by the shop owner for her cutting technique. Even though her left fingers were not where they are “supposed” to be, she got the noodles cut without taking off any fingers! No faith!

Then they cooked the noodles and brought us lunch! Catherine’s camera ran out of batteries at this point so we have no more pictures from the weekend, but I promise you, those noodles were beautiful! The thickness of the noodles in our bowl varied so much depending on who had cut them; it was pretty cute. And now I know how to make soba, so you’re invited for dinner!

Next, we hiked Mt. One-dake. A large straw covered mountain in the middle of Saikai National Park. It looks like such a bald hill without the trees which cover absolutely all of Goto Islands, but it does have some beautiful views from atop. They grow a crop on it each year too. It looked like wheat, but I’m not sure. We hiked all around it (there’s a big crater like part in the middle) and finished by going down into the crater area and straight back up the side. Tomoko was wearing boots with heels (not very high heels, but heels nonetheless) and I don’t know how she did it! It was a weekend of much needed hiking!

In the afternoon we tried to go see Shingo’s sister in the hospital who had just had her baby a few days ago, but she was breastfeeding and so we didn't get to see them. I just felt bad for Shingo, because it’s his first nephew and he has to wait until next week to see the baby because we were all there!

We had a little time to kill before our ferries left so we went to Goto mall and did purikura (the picture stickers) and had a snack at Mister Donut. I saw four or five of my students there too. Of all the places to see each other, they catch me at Mister Donut!! The were all seniors who were getting their driver’s licenses at the testing center on Fukue. At the port, Shingo’s parents and sister came to wave us goodbye and they gave us omiyage for the trip home! We got cakes and cream puffs from his mother!! Oishikata desu! I slept the whole ferry ride home—woke up once for the stop at Naru and don’t remember a single other thing. It was a fun weekend, but absolutely exhausting!

Thank you Shingo for such a wonderful time! You much come visit Oregon so I can repay you with “Sightseeing Oregon!”
Love, Sierra